EchoBlog

Longtime readers of Sola Cepa will know my fervent devotion to Russ’, home to some of the finest onion rings in the state. And yet there are those among we descendants of the Low Countries who swear allegiance to another: Rainbow Grill.

To some extent, contention is baked into Dutch blood, at least among those immigrants and their descendants in and around West Michigan. Seemingly infinite permutations and denominations of Reformed churches, scores of functionally identical small businesses in nonetheless vicious competition, and arbitrary tribalism fixed around some institution or another echo through the lakes and rivers.

Do you root for Calvin, or Hope? Do you call it Meijer, or Meijer’s? And, most importantly for Sola Cepa, Russ’ or Rainbow Grill?

At the urging of two friends and long-time Sola Cepa superfans, Shelby and Kendall, I made the trek to this forbidden site to answer the question that matters: how are the onion rings?

Here is a review of onion rings from Rainbow Grill, at the Hudsonville location.

Presentation and Appearance: (4/5)

The onion rings arrive in two almost dainty stacks, like fried and breaded volcanos from a particularly Midwestern hibachi restaurant, on a large white oval plate with a plastic cup of ranch precariously perched between.

The breading is a curious mixture of smooth and gnarled, cascading like a waterfall streaming down the onion mountain peaks. The delicacy suggests a possible issue of structural integrity, evidenced by chips of batter already resting on the plate. Nevertheless, they are quite attractive, a light golden brown color with just a few patches in the lacy batter.

Taste: (4.5/5)

Despite my obvious and stated loyalties to Russ’ Restaurant, I must admit that these onion rings taste delightful. A buttery unctuousness swirls throughout each ring, no doubt the result of an expertly cooked onion, fried just long enough to unleash their juices. The batter is lighter and less prominent, though it is decently greasy and well salted.

Rainbow Grill’s ranch is what truly elevates the taste of these onion rings. Clearly made in-house, it is creamy, seasoned with a zing, and just a little bit watery. The ranch and the onion rings work in tandem to elevate the experience in every bite.

Texture: (4/5)

That onion itself sits at a comfortable medium between hard and soft, with just enough give to bend and go down easy. But the star, and the hamartia, of these onion rings is the batter.

Batter is a tricky thing. It bears the brunt of the effort to combine flavor, textural cohesion, and an appearance pleasing to the eye into one dish. The delicacy of Rainbow Grill’s batter is its greatest strength, and its Achilles Heel. It is equal parts crunchy and smooth, a fried and greasy ornate lace wrapping around the onion treasure within.

And yet, it cannot stand up to all of the rigors of consumption. The smaller onion rings collapse in on themselves as the ribbons collapse and, in their death throes, fall softly to the plate below, like landslide after landslide slowly eroding the once picturesque peaks.

Value: (5/5)

At the time of my visit, an appetizer sized serving (8 onion rings) cost $6.95, a fair bargain modestly below the typical $1 per ring price for premium rings and roughly on par with the price at Russ’. Despite minor quibbles in batter strength and integrity, the onion rings from Rainbow Grill are tasty, filling, and well worth your time.

Total: (17.5/20)

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